My son phoned while on a French exchange to Alsace Lorraine. “They keep making me eat quiche,” he sobbed, “and I hate quiche.”

Alsace Lorraine is famous for many things, and yes, quiche is one of them, not that it was evident on the new Pompette restaurant menu when I visited for the second time last week - far too bourgeois.

Pascal Wiedemann’s offerings certainly veer towards his regional roots, the Germanic influence as evident in his prix fixe lunch menu, as his French.

My Montbeliard sausage with choucroute and mustard sauce was unforgettable, a dense smokey bratwurst with sharp pickled cabbage, and a sauce which left just the right level of nose-burning satisfaction, redolent of Austrian ski slopes. Brilliant.

 

The sausage theme was initiated in the starters with an unforgettable mortadella, mozzarella and caper berry dish. Mortadella, although Italian, is a luncheon meat, sliced thinly here, whose wonderfully white fat patches were set against the sharpness of the capers, and the creamy mozzarella, providing a wonderful contrast of texture and flavour.

 

The cauliflower soup hit new depths of flavour, so silky it almost stuck to the spoon, the crumbly parmesan biscuit scone-like in its conception.

I followed with a creme caramel, whose bitter sweet creaminess hit just the right note, served by the wonderful Matthew. And all for £20.

Having arrived with his wife Laura to set up shop in Jericho just before Christmas, Pompette is already doing a roaring trade on South Parade, Pascal’s reputation following him from West London where he made his name at Racine, famous wine bar Terroirs and then Six Portland Road, which explains the dedicated cheese and meat boards and the extensive wine list.

Already acclaimed by the nationals, I first visited Pompette before Christmas, where Portabello resided, still recognisable with its square bar and plate glass window, despite its recent makeover.

Pompette’s adventurous bent was obvious then, gunard nestling against cod and fennel, a lamb chop embellished with chilli, garlic and fennel seeds.

Vintage cocktails enticed us with their dusky hues, going someway to explaining why Pompette was chosen as a name - meaning tipsy in French - the details of the evening falling away.

First up a round of cervelle de canut; a fromage blanc with herbs, shallots, and walnut oil served with baked, thinly sliced baguette, the dip scattered with chopped chives.

Roquefort, pear and spiced walnut salad can be wheeled out by any Toma, Pierre and Henri, but Pascal’s was beautifully presented and nuanced, the crunch of the walnut against the sharp cheese, crunch of lettuce, juicy pears, chopped chives, and strong dressing giving it an unquestionably Gallic twist.

The chopped fillet of beef, rosemary, olive oil, lemon and lardo was less easy on the eye - the latter stretched over the top like jellyfish in its opaqueness, the thin layer of ham melting onto the chopped meat underneath.

 

The 10oz Hereford ribeye steak with chips and green salad was a hefty £36, accompanied by a wonderful Bearnaise sauce. Yet the salad’s watery leaves and no discernible dressing was rather haphazard, and the chips chunky, rather than frites, which was unexpected. The steak however was beautifully cooked, hailing from a fantastic London butcher, the quality evident.

The bright yellow pumpkin, wild mushroom and truffle risotto (a mighty £26) was overly generous in it’s fungal decoration and suitably seasonal.

 

Another creme caramel followed, I have to admit, with it’s enticing, sucking depths - the much underrated dessert providing the perfect finale.

Pompette is further evidence of Summertown’s culinary regeneration; The Bicycle Shed opening in Saffron’s former premises, and Oxford Kitchen’s Michelin star being awarded, in as many months.

Oxford’s most wealthy suburb is having a long overdue renaissance it seems.

Pompette Restaurant

7 South Parade, OX27JL

Opening Hours: 10am-10.30pm Tues-Sat, 12-5pm Sunday

01865 311166

Parking: You’ll be lucky. Best to stick to the Summertown car park and walk to South Parade

Try the: fixe prix menu: £16.50 for two course or £20 for three.

Bear in mind: The menu changes daily.

Tipsy? Pompette means tipsy, and, suitably enough, is also a wine bar. If you’re not eating, pop in and explore the wine list.