Sad news that several standalone Oxford coffee shops, cafes and restaurants have closed in the wake of Brexit/Westgate/the internet, heralding a flurry of tweets reminding me to support independents.

What incensed me wasn’t the dictum itself, because I agree absolutely – of course we should support our independents.

What grated was that I have been doing so for years, venturing into the depths of Oxfordshire to seek out the chefs, landlords and restaurateurs toiling away in tiny villages and towns, hidden away from the urban eye, where rents are cheaper and it’s easier to make a success of things.

Ditto East Oxford, the mecca of independents, where chains struggle to match the brilliant array of international cuisine already on offer.

Our Start-Up page was set up for just that reason, allowing anywhere new, or up-and-coming, to introduce themselves, to encourage you to give them a go. Our reviews then let you know whether to try them out.

Take the Oxford Mail and Oxford Times Restaurant of the Year awards, which went to Arbequina at the top of Cowley Road.

Ditto The White Hart in Fyfield whose husband and wife team Mark and Kay Chandler won Best Gastro Pub, Best Cafe went to The Milkshed in Weston-On-The-Green, Best Fine Dining to The Nut Tree in Murcott, Best World Food was won by Dosa Park in Frideswide Square, Best New Opening to the wonderful No.1 Ship Street, Best Pub The Hollybush in Witney, Best Restaurant Sojo, Best Pizza The White Rabbit – oh look – all independents.

But if somewhere new opens, especially in the city centre, whether it’s part of a chain or not, it is also my prerogative to test them out, because readers want to know what they are like.

I can’t ignore the Westgate, but neither will I ever stop championing the independent. Five out of the six restaurants I’ve reviewed in the past two weeks have been stand alones.

So I’ll kick off this week with one of them: Taco Bandits, a wonderful local success story of two lads, Oliver Lee and Ben Gibbons, who started a pop-up Mexican stand which they took to markets and festivals.

It became so successful that they have now taken on their own premises on Magdalen Road, on the site which housed Hyper Ramen and before that GAF, next to Oli’s Thai.

It’s a fun spot, a new gastro hub, where only those with a unique identity will survive. Over the road is The Chester Arms, up a bit the newly-opened Oxford Blue, down a bit The Rusty Bicycle and Oli’s Thai, all doing a roaring trade and top notch tucker. Competition is rife.

Taco Bandits ticked all the boxes for me. It has a young, zesty feel about it, emanating from the two young men wrestling with tacos in the kitchen and running through the food they produce.

They have also come up with a great wheeze to share the rent: Taco Bandits Taqueria is open from 5pm to 11pm every Monday to Saturday while pop-up breakfast bar Spurtle and Spoon, opens from 9am to 2.30pm Monday to Friday.

The restaurant itself is an easy space, light pouring in through the doors, a relaxed atmosphere, a mezzanine level to people watch from, happy staff, exotic drinks, people popping in for a snack or a full blown dinner.

The menu is divided into tacos, rice bowls, nachos, sides and desserts. Run on a small plate/sharing mentality, order more than you think because the portions are quite small.

One look at the menu however reassures. A case of quality over quantity then, because the fillings sing; mole chicken and radish slaw, blackened cod and barbecued pineapple salsa, mexican roasted cauliflower and romesco sauce, chorizo, black bean with red pepper and tomato roasted squash with black bean and feta.

You can almost hear the Mexican vihuela strumming in the background, Cuban heels stamping the tiled floor.

We dived in, ordering pretty much everything in its various incarnations. To be honest whether you order the rice bowl, nacho or taco variations, they are mere vessels for the flavours, textures and vitality of the ingredients jumping out. Instead it is all about the chilli hit, tang of herbs, softness of the beans and tomatoes, juice of the pineapple, flakiness of the fish, hit of the radish, tang of the feta. It was all going on, against the crunch of the nachos and the enveloping comfort of the tacos.

The most expensive dish is £6.50, the cheapest £4.95, so you can afford to try a few different things, especially as they all come ‘loaded’ with coriander, pico de gallo, sour cream, chipotle, fried corn and lime.

Puddings are limited but hit the spot; a flourless margarita cake (£3.75) a mexican brownie and the manchego with honey and thyme (£6).

So there we are. Another amazing little independent to try out. Just don’t forget who told you about it.

Katherine MacAlister

Taco Bandits Taqueria

Magdalen Rd, Oxford OX4 1RB.

tacobandits.com